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Archive for March, 2011

SCRATCH SUPPER: SPAGHETTI WITH MELLOW-YELLOW ONIONS

    Italians have an uncanny knack for making something out of nothing, for making something that is simultaneously minimalist—austere, even—and luxurious. Think of the interiors, the clothes, the jewelry, in last year’s film I Am Love. In an Italian kitchen, this trick relies, in part, on impeccable ingredients that aren’t fussed over too much. But, […]

A FORMER GOURMET COLLEAGUE WRITES FROM JAPAN

  Ever curious about the world at large, Gourmet published its first big piece about Japanese food, “Song of Sashimi,” in 1958. Beginning in the 1970s, the person most responsible for the depth, passion, and accuracy of the magazine’s Japan coverage was contributing editor Elizabeth Andoh, the leading English-language authority on the subject. Elizabeth is […]

IT’S EASY BEING GREEN IN EARLY SPRING

Temperatures are creeping up, but March in the Northeast is still heavy going. And even though there is beautiful asparagus available at my local supermarket, it’s surrounded by bluff, hearty winter squash, rutabagas, and chard, and, consequently, it looks a little embarrassed to be at the same party. I walk past the showy spears without […]

BEYOND SRIRACHA: THE DEEP HEAT OF GOCHUJANG

Any connoisseur of hot sauce knows sriracha, the garlicky sweet-spicy chili sauce named after a coastal town in Chonburi Province, Thailand. The version produced by Huy Fong Foods, in California—sold in a clear squeeze bottle emblazoned with a white rooster and topped with a bright-green cap—became an instant icon. Its migration from street-food trucks in […]

OBSESSION: THE POT THAT LIVES ON OUR STOVE

This small, stocky Le Creuset saucepan—complete with a lid that doubles as a skillet—should be in the design collection at the Museum of Modern Art. Not only does it perfectly balance utility and beauty, it fulfills what Paola Antonelli, senior curator, department of architecture and design at MoMA, calls her litmus test: If the object […]