Archive for 'restaurants'
ZUCCHINI: THE RAW & THE COOKED
Zucchini has quite the reputation. The plants are prolific as hell, and with the effortless pick-up of a sports car, their offspring zooms from the cute, almost-ready-to-pick stage to the size of a cricket bat (see above) in no time. Garrison Keillor, chronicler of the small, fictional town of Lake Wobegon on A Prairie Home Companion, has […]
Posted: September 30th, 2014 under cookbooks, cooking, culinary history, early autumn, kitchen equipment, people + places, recipes, restaurants.
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BARBECUE SHRIMP
For years, I’ve avoided buying jumbo shrimp (one of my favorite oxymorons), because I’ve never known how to bring out their best. My default method—a few minutes in a small amount of simmering water—is more suited to small or medium shrimp. In my hands, jumbos handled this way become simultaneously tough and mushy on the outside before […]
Posted: July 22nd, 2014 under barbecue, cooking, people + places, recipes, restaurants.
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FAST-TRACKING CHICKEN SALAD
Aside from the “fiesta” or “Oriental” versions found at some chain restaurants, chicken salad has pretty much been relegated to the Nostalgia Department: suitable fare for tearooms (of the Woman’s Exchange variety and otherwise), drug-store lunch counters (here’s a marvelous Lewis Hine image), and southern porch suppers, circa 1955. I don’t know why. I suppose people […]
Posted: June 10th, 2014 under cooking, people + places, recipes, restaurants, summer.
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SCRATCH SUPPER: BROCCOLI RABE WITH PASTA AND OLIVES
If it’s April, I’m eating broccoli rage. Drat—Wordpress autocorrect did it again—I mean broccoli rabe. Despite its name (the last bit is pronounced rahb), it’s more closely related to turnips (Brassica rapa) than to regular broccoli (Brassica oleracea), and although it’s commonly described as a bitter green, I happen to think it has more of […]
Posted: April 29th, 2014 under cooking, early spring, pantry, recipes, restaurants, scratch supper.
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A SALAD FOR A SNOWY NIGHT
The snow started earlier than predicted this morning, and soon settled in to enjoy itself. In a perfect world, I’d have lamb shanks braising in the oven, but since my time is not my own this week, roast chicken will do nicely. The kale and roasted squash salad I’ll serve with it is hearty enough […]
Posted: January 21st, 2014 under cooking, Gourmet magazine, people + places, recipes, restaurants.
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RECIPE FOR HAPPINESS: ROSEMARY-ROASTED POTATOES FROM JUDY RODGERS
Last Monday’s sad news that Judy Rodgers, chef and co-owner of Zuni Cafe, in San Francisco, had died prompted an outpouring of heartfelt tributes. One that stood out in my mind was that in the Los Angeles Times by Jonathan Gold, who introduced me to Judy’s remarkable food back in 2001, on a research trip I took with […]
Posted: December 10th, 2013 under favorite books, people + places, recipes, restaurants.
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FOR THE FOODIE WHO HAS EVERYTHING: THE BEST KITCHEN TOWELS
From a six-burner stove and pot-filler faucet to nonstick baking-sheet liners and a high-end chef’s knife, this is the age of professional equipment for the home kitchen. But for some reason, one of the most important tools a restaurant cook relies on every single day has yet to cross over. I’m talking about towels, kitchen […]
Posted: December 3rd, 2013 under holiday gifts, kitchen sync, objects of desire, people + places, restaurants.
Comments: 4
DESTINATION: BISCUITVILLE
A biscuit is one of the world’s great road-trip foods. It’s fast to make and eat, portable, good hot or cold, and can swing savory or sweet. You can use it for a sandwich or to round out a bowl of chili or piece of chicken. Which is why it’s so difficult to understand why […]
Posted: July 23rd, 2013 under baking, people + places, restaurants.
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SOME PIG, SOME PARTY: BIG APPLE BARBECUE
I may live in New York City, but I don’t much care for crowds, which is why you will never find me at the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day parade, the lighting of the Christmas tree at Rockefeller Center, the Belmont Stakes, or any concert any time in Central Park. That’s what television is for. But I […]
Posted: June 11th, 2013 under barbecue, people + places, restaurants, summer.
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POT-ROAST COD STARTS HERE
When: Saturday, May 25, at the start of the long Memorial Day weekend. Where: Whole Foods, Union Square. Eddy, my favorite man behind the meat counter, threw a doleful glance at his array of kebabs, steaks, and ribs. “It’s too cold and rainy to cook out,” he said. “So far, everybody’s been asking for meatloaf mix and […]
Posted: May 28th, 2013 under cookbooks, Gourmet magazine, recipes, restaurants, spring.
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