Archive for 'restaurants'
LINGUINE WITH NEW ZEALAND COCKLES
The little bivalve mollusks called cockles are found in sheltered estuaries and tidal flats throughout much of the world, and a flourishing cockle bed may be packed with more than a million of them to the acre. Most of those we see at American seafood markets are New Zealand cockles (Austrovenus stuchburyi; known to the […]
Posted: April 23rd, 2013 under cooking, Gourmet magazine, recipes, restaurants, spring.
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CORNED BEEF HASH AND ME
Saint Paddy’s Day is around the corner, and supermarket meat cases are brimming with vacuum-packed slabs of salty, rich corned beef. In a day or so, I expect Sam will be bringing one home, like he always does. That came out wrong. I like corned beef, I really do. Sam goes the extra mile to […]
Posted: March 12th, 2013 under food, pantry, restaurants.
Comments: 2
OBSESSION: THE WARREN PEAR
The pear is one of the world’s great dessert fruits. Native to the South Caucasus, North Persia, or the Middle East, it’s been cultivated for more than 4,000 years. Homer called it “the fruit of the gods,” and Grand Duke Cosimo II de’ Medici (best known as patron of Galileo Galilei, his childhood tutor), was said to have […]
Posted: October 22nd, 2012 under autumn, cookbooks, obsession, people + places, recipes, restaurants.
Comments: 1
HARISSA MORO
Harissa—a blend of hot chiles, garlic, olive oil, and spices—is an essential condiment and flavor base in Tunisia and elsewhere in North Africa. It is is eaten in or alongside couscous, stews, egg dishes, and briks, or “stuffed parcels” made from the crisp, thinner-than-thin pastry called warka. It’s no surprise that there are as many […]
Posted: September 25th, 2012 under cookbooks, early autumn, people + places, recipes, restaurants.
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IT’S ROOT BEER SEASON
June 10 was National Black Cow Day, and even though we celebrated in style, I realized I don’t really need a reason to pop the cap off a frosty bottle of root beer. The most sentimental of soft drinks, it reminds me of backyard picnics on a chenille bedspread, Sunday afternoons at a minor league […]
Posted: June 12th, 2012 under culinary history, people + places, restaurants, summer.
Comments: 1
BARLEY AND MUSHROOMS
Barley is the oldest cultivated grain in the world for good reason. Because it’s a hardy crop with a relatively short growing season, the Barley Belt stretches from the Arctic Circle to northern India. And its mild, nutty flavor, appealing texture, and fuss-free, relatively short cooking time—it takes about 45 minutes to become tender, with […]
Posted: February 1st, 2012 under cookbooks, culinary history, recipes, restaurants, winter.
Comments: 6
CELERY ROOT, THE FROG PRINCE
New York, October, 1978. The restaurant? Les Pleiades. Tucked in the Surrey Hotel, at 20 East 76th Street, it was one of the city’s classic French “red room” restaurants and a legendary gathering place for art dealers, collectors, auction-house experts, and museum directors. The first course on everyone’s plate? Céleri rémoulade, impeccably cut matchsticks of raw […]
Posted: October 12th, 2011 under autumn, cookbooks, cooking, people + places, recipes, restaurants, Union Square Greenmarket.
Comments: 2
FRIED FISH: YOU GOTTA START SOMEWHERE
My mother, an all-around sportswoman, loved to fish, and she didn’t mind scaling and gutting her catch. She was, however, less enthusiastic about cooking it. Uncomplicated was the name of the game. Both my parents felt that the mild fish they preferred—flounder, drum, sheepshead—was so pristine it didn’t need much fooling with, although things changed […]
Posted: April 6th, 2011 under cookbooks, cooking, food, people + places, restaurants.
Comments: 2
DUCK A LA TABLA
I’m pigged out, which is not the same as pigging out. I’m bored with beef. I do not want to see any more turkey for a while, although a fragrant bowl of homemade turkey stock, thick with orzo or tiny pasta stars, does not count. A juicy roast chicken will always have its place, but still. […]
Posted: January 19th, 2011 under cookbooks, cooking, food, people + places, restaurants, winter.
Comments: 3
PIT STOP
I’ve been a huge fan of Ed Mitchell’s whole-hog barbecue ever since John T. Edge first championed the pitmaster’s crazy, pure vision—to source and serve the juicy, full-flavored, pastured pork of his childhood—in the pages of Gourmet almost exactly five years ago. The only things that surpass Ed’s pork are his beaming countenance and enveloping […]
Posted: September 12th, 2010 under cooking, Gourmet magazine, restaurants.
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